From the October 2012 issue of Wine Advocate.
The 2009 Barbaresco is absolutely remarkable for the way it carersses the palate with endless layers of sweet red fruit. Will the 2009 shut down in bottle? Truth is, I don’t know, but the wine is exceptionally beautiful and polished from the very first taste. Ripe, red berries, crushed flowers and deeply spiced notes are woven into an intricate fabric of indescribable class. I am not sure how Angelo Gaja and his team do it, but this is a super-impressive wine in every way. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2029.
Sorì Tildin 2009
The 2009 Sorì Tildin is a fascinating wine. The vineyard sits just above Costa Russi, separated only by the road that leads to Alba. This is an especially imposing vintage for Sori Tildin. Over time, the wine’s signature nuances and details begin to emerge. A radiant, sensual personality rounds things out nicely. This is a great showing from Gaja. The 2009 shuts down quickly in the glass, and is likely to demand a measure of patience from readers. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039.
Sorì San Lorenzo 2009
Gaja’s 2009 Sorì San Lorenzo, on the other hand, is much more typical in its expression. Layers of juicy dark cherries, menthol, spices, tar, licorice and graphite flow across the palate as this powerful, masculine wine opens up in the glass. Balsamic infused aromas and flavors develop in the glass, adding considerable complexity and the signature of this great terroir, indisputably one of Piemonte’s very finest. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039.